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Baan Khlong Bang Luang Artist’s House (or sometimes also known as Baan Silapin) is one of my most memorable visits while in Bangkok in July 2018. Hope this would help you to decide to visit too! (That sign on the above pic says Klong Bang Luang. Managed to read this myself 🙂 ).
This special gem is tucked rather far from public transport. But with Google maps‘ help I’ve survived, so anyone would, too! Take BTS to Bang Wa station, then walk for 20-30min through local residence and a small market. You’d find some street snacks on the way; by all means, do buy some to enjoy while walking! I had stopped for some gai ping on my way, and kap moo and sai krok on the way back. Other easier (and more costly) transport means would be by Grab/taxi, or by taking khlong/boat (I don’t have info about where and how, but saw many tourists arrived by boat). You’ll arrive on a open-air cafe by the riverside. Do stop by, enjoy the shade after long walk beneath afternoon sun’s glare.
The highlight of this place is the puppet show, which would take stage on weekends at 2pm. Some says they have shows on weekday too, but I’m not sure. Anyway, I was there on Saturday. Take my advice, be there about an hour or two earlier. You could even have lunch here, as many people did. I arrived around 12pm, so had plenty of time to chill out.
Bought 25B iced o-liang (local coffee, mild and very refreshing) and 10B fish food in a extra large bag. The old lady stall keeper was delighted on hearing me trying to place order using Thai language. She got a good laugh on me mixing and jumbled up the words, then corrected me how to ask for less ice, which delighted her even more. In the end she gave me 5B discount 🙂 The amiable gesture, more than the money’s worth, really made my day.
Enjoying a cup of o-liang, tossing food to the fishes, watching the khlongs passing by… Anyone would easily unwind. Quite many tourist around, but the atmosphere was mostly peaceful and calm under the river breeze. Time seemed to slow down here.
Around 12.30 I took a leisurely stroll along the baan/village. They were only a dozen or so houses build in straight line along the riverside, even slightly over the river. There were steps down to the river every several meters for those who were using boat. I saw an old lady selling mango sticky rice from boat, but nobody buying at the moment.
People lived in houses along the riverside, and opened their door wide so passers-by could take a good look at everything inside. Almost everyone would understand English here. Wide variety of craft made and sold : paintings, sculptures, drawings, sketches, jewelry, figurines, masks, and of course food and drink, and lots and lots of fish food in those oversized bags. They do love their fishes here!
Looking at the fishes, you’ll understand the size of the bag. They were so many, and so huge! The smallest were the size of adult’s arm. Catfishes, I guess. They were always hungry, any scrap tossed was snatched immediately, often cause quite commotion.
I really enjoyed the absence of yammering and cajoling to buy the wares. Very different from other tourist destinations in Bangkok. Everyone is nice but in peaceful way. I’m definitely not an expert, but I do think the wares offered were of good quality, beautiful and quite inexpensive. Some stalls offered making painting of your face. I ended up buying some nice jewelry; those cute earrings were 30B-40B, and that 80B pretty necklace was of real pearls (not top quality, but still nice).
I found an old lady who was crocheting a dress in front of her shop, and selling some, too. She also provided crochet class on demand. Delighted to know I’m a yarn lovers too, and proudly showing off her lovely creations, generously let me taking pics of everything despite buying nothing. But she was so shy and wouldn’t let me took photo of her 🙂
About 20min was enough for browsing the village, so I return to the Artist’s House, took off my shoes, and went roaming inside. Entry is free, and anyone who wants to do some craft is welcomed. Some tourists and local artists were doing their own craft; sketching, painting, drawing, or even just playing cards. There were various craft materials sold, but you could also bring your own. Some children activities took place at one corner, perhaps provided by a tour. A cafe on the front served coffee, tea and cocoa drink starts from 30B.
There were so many lovely small paintings and knick-knack souvenirs to buy.
At second floor their props were showed : masks, bamboo puppets, costumes, and also some paintings to sell. Someone took interest in water paintings, and this guy was showing her the collections. I took a peek at beautiful paintings offered.
The puppet show started at 2pm. I had prime seat at 1.30. Be there early, the small place soon got so crowded, even some sit on the floor in front of the first row of chairs. The small stage got a real ancient chedi as center background piece. At 1.45 a funny guy opened the act in Thai language. Only very little English provided from recording, explaining the acts. Beside me was a local woman, knowing I didn’t understand any Thai, kindly gave me some extra info during the show.
The show started with paying homage to the King. Then the young boys showing off their morning routine; half-dancing, half-martial arts training. Some ‘monkey’ appear, and not much longer came the Hanuman, in ancient story a monkey king himself.
The second act took after ancient story of Hanuman chasing after Benjagaya. The Hanuman puppet was operated by boys, and Benjagaya puppet by girls. A person controlled the puppet’s right hand and leg, the other controlled the left side, and the third controlled the body and head. And all three of them were dancing the same movement of the puppet they moved. They played the puppets beautifully. The Hanuman was especially energetic, to watch them moved together was really a marvel!
During the ‘chase’, they interacted with the audience. The puppets were made to receive money and food offered by the audience, made little kids laughed in delight or (some) shrieked in fear, acting funny, posing for pics, kissing cheeks… Wonderful way give up-close and personal experience to audience. But the small place was really crowded, so it was taking a bit too long IMHO.
The third and last act was no less amazing, the King of Pop himself! Yes, it was the puppet of Michael Jackson, dancing his moonwalk and his other signature moves to ‘Billy Jean’. What a laugh, what a marvel!
The whole show concluded in 30min. After the show they gladly attended those who wanted to try playing the puppets and taking photos. No fee whatsoever, but they received donations for maintaining the traditional show. For that remarkable show, I willingly donated quite generous amount.
So, now you know another wonderful place in Bangkok to bring yourself, partner, friends, and/or family with (small) kids. Something cultured, unique, but still so much fun. And also budget friendly 🙂 Do visit, and enjoy!
elfinovich 